Tutorial: Lord of the Rings Potholders

Because... who doesn't want Lord of the Rings potholders?! Probably a lot of people but just for the sake of the argument, we will pretend most of my readers are geeks like me. I have posted about Fandom in Stitches a few times. They are my absolute favorite site for fandom patterns. They are all free and created by incredibly talented people. Please only use the patterns for personal use and not commercial. These potholders are made using the Lord of the Rings Eye of Sauron pattern (and Sting below) but using their site you can make them from virtually any fandom you wish: from Disney to Supernatural to Harry Potter and Sherlock. This tutorial is short and sweet, assuming you already know how to make and use bias tape. If you don't check this out. You can also save time by buying pre-made bias tape.

After making your Eye of Sauron (or fandom block of choice) gather the following items:

Insul-Bright batting made for handling of heat (please DO NOT use regular batting... your hands WILL burn!!!)

Fabric for backing (a fat quarter should do)

Bias tape

Thread

Using your block as a guide, cut out the Insul-Bright and backing of the same size and sandwich. Make sure the backing is facing out. 

Quilt the three layers together by stitching in the ditch of the design. I chose to outline the mountains and eye.

After joining the three layers, create a loop for the potholder by sewing a 3 inch piece of bias tape together. Add the loop to a corner on the back and attach the bias tape to the edges of the potholder. I sew mine on the back first then fold it over to the front and finish with a top stitch. 

Here is Sting, Bilbo's orc finding sword. These potholders are fun to make as gifts or just to make you smile when whipping up some Elevenses or Second Breakfast in the kitchen. 

Which fandom would you make potholders out of?

Passport Cover Tutorial

I had to take my passport to be scanned over to the military base so I could get clearance rolling and the trip to and fro in my bag jostled and scruffed my passport up a wee bit. It got me thinking that it would be nice to have a cover to help protect it and maybe even store my ID inside of for when I need to get through customs. Thus the birth of my down and dirty quick passport cover tutorial. It is not ultra refined but it IS quirky and does the job.

Materials:

Timtex: roughly 10 by 6  inch piece

two fat quarters of coordinating fabric

mini hairband

vintage button

thread

I chose a heavier weight cotton for durability purposes. I had these two half yard cuts of Echino fabric made by Kokka, a high quality Japanese fabric brand, that I had been hoarding for several years. They have a light canvas cloth feel. Plus the buses and cars rocked... transportation... going places... passports!

Cut two rectangles of Timtex or other heavy weight interfacing: 4" by 5 1/4"

Not perfect but close enough.

Cut five total rectangles of fabric: two for the cover of the book and two for the lining and one for the pocket that the passport will slide into: 4 1/2" by 5 3/4" each. 

Next, cut out two pieces in any fabric choice to create an additional little pocket for an ID: roughly 2 1/2" by 3 1/4".

Remove plastic backing from the Timtex and adhere to the cover fabric pieces using a hot iron, as directed.

Here are my pieces all lined up and ready to go. The left are my covers with the interfacing attached. The brown buses are my lining, the single on the right of the buses is the passport pocket with a double folded and ironed edge (do this on the LEFT side of the fabric when right side up). Lastly, the tiny pocket on the far right with a corner cut off. Just eyeball it. ;-)

Ironing the edge down on the passport pocket.

Sew down the folded edge. I used a zigzag stitch for fun factor. 

Place the tiny ID pocket right sides together and sew around the short side, corner and top using a 1/4" seam allowance. See below.

After sewing along the three sides shown: clip corners, turn inside out, press and top stitch.

Place tiny ID pocket on the left lining side (as if you were holding open a book, one lining is the inside left and the other is the inside right). The tiny ID pocket can be placed either vertically tall or horizontally long, whichever is your preference. See photos at the end of the post for clarification. 

Next, make your loop for the closure by taking the tiny hairband and spearing it with a needle near one end. Take some thread and tie the end of the hairband off so it stays pinched.

Lay the hairband down along the left edge of the left lining on top of the tiny ID pocket. Stitch along the left edge of the tiny pocket and over the hairband (back and forth over the hairband to secure it) and down across the bottom, using 1/4" seam allowance.

Take the right hand lining and place the large passport pocket on top, lining up along the right hand edge. stitch in place using 1/4" seam allowance.

Place the covers and the linings right sides together, making sure the fabric is correct if directional (no upside down cars or anything, unless you want it that way). Stitch them together along the sides and top, back-stitching at the beginning and end for security. Stitch as close to the Timtex as you can without going on top of it.  Leave the bottoms open. 

Clip the corners and turn inside out. It will be tricksy with the Timtext, but you can do it! Iron down and tuck in the bottom. Top-stitch all the way around the rectangle, close to the edge. Press with the iron.

Sandwich the top and back covers and use a blanket stitch along the spine to join the two sides. I used all six strands on the embroidery floss.

Two passport covers.

Slide the last page of the passport into the large pocket on the right side. This one has the tiny ID pocket placed vertically.

This one has the tiny ID pocket placed horizontally. The cars are upside-down on this passport pocket. Totally on purpose. >bites lip<

Check out my mad cool vintage buttons. The green one is an old bakelite button from eBay. Vintage buttons are sweet. 

These really weren't too bad to whip up. 

Thanks and happy sewing!

Tutorial: Rice Filled Heating Pads

Heating pads in this home get frequent use. Adam uses them for his neck pains which come from bent neck desk work and long car drives while traveling (or yours truly, your pick). He also uses them across his forehead when he has sinus issues. I use them monthly and the girls use them to sporadically because they simply feel good. A friend made ours several years ago and it was well worn and ready to be chucked in the bin, but before I did, I used its measurements to sew a new one. It was so easy and we had so much rice we were hoarding like Doomsday Preppers that I decided to craft a whole lot of them. Wanna give it a go?

Cut a length of fabric roughly 12 inches wide and 23 inches long (some of mine range from 22-24 inches depending on the scraps of fabric I used). 

Fold the fabric, right sides touching, and sew along one end and the entire length of the opening. Leave the other end open.

It should be like a tube with one end sealed now. Turn it inside out and mark the length into quarters. I mark the midway point first. These will be your four rice filled chambers.

Use your stockpile of Doomsday rice, or any handy rice laying about your home, and fill about 1 1/2 cups in the tube. Scarlette loved doing this part. The rice has a doughy/yeast/grain scent so some folks add essential oils for added aromatherapy benefits. I lacked these so I skipped this. I just spray mine with Bath & Body Works pillow spray in Lavender & Chamomile. 

Trying to keep the rice bunched at the end, sew along the quarter mark you made. I like to use a zigzag stitch here for funsies. 

After sewing, fill the next segment of tub with rice and sew again at the halfway mark. Repeat the process until you get to the end. Watch those rice bits, they can be tricksy and creep into your sewing area.

Once you reach the end and have added your last 1 1/2 cups of rice, fold in the end of the fabric, pinch, and pin. Sew along the edge and you are done. Ta Da! Quick and drug-less pain relief at the drop of a pin. I pop one in the microwave for 2 minutes for toasty comfort.

I may have made a few for gifting. <3 Spoilers!

Tutorial: Spooky Coasters

Coaster tutorial! Coasters are a great way to use up scraps and left over batting. I like to mix and match the colors and fabrics for interest. Slink along for a spooky sewing good time...

For one coaster, cut two squares of coordinating fabric 5 1/2" square. Also cut a piece of batting 5 1/2" square. I prefer coasters in sets of four. So I chose 4 squares of the pumpkin fabric for the top and 2 orange and 2 black for the bottom of the coasters. I am showing more here as I made a few sets. The batting is sorted into stacks of four.

Place your choice of fabric for the top of the coaster right side up on a single square of batting. Sew it together using various stitches. Have fun! Mix it up. Make sure to sew along all four sides.

Place the bottom fabric choice on top of what you have just sewn. Right sides of fabric touching. Wrong side facing you.

Sew along all four sides, leaving a 2-3" gap. Clip corners without cutting into the seam. This results in sharper, more defined corners when you turn it right side out.

Turn right side out, and poke the corners out. I use a paint brush end for this. You can see on the right where the gap is located. Fold the fabric in, press with an iron and pin it closed.

Sew along all four sides, making sure to close the seam gap.

Continue to sew more lines haphazardly until satisfied. You have just quilted a coaster! Trim all loose threads.

Back and front view of finished product. Really simple sewing project, great for a beginner. These can be done in any colorway for everyday use or specific for holidays. Also they can be thrown in the washing machine and ironed flat again when dry.

Scary easy. Boo.